LA PRENSA (the press)

My way of life in mexico seems to be so tightly meshed with the media, the press. Being a journalist in mexico is a different ballgame than in australia. In 2006, Mexico had the highest number of press killings after Iraq ... 2nd highest ranked press killer in the world! Since the year 2000, almost 40 journalists or reporters have been killed or 'disappeared'. A lot of this has to do with the problem of drug cartels throughout the country, with journalists getting caught in the cross fire. Severed heads have been hung outside newspaper offices and grenades left in press rooms.

I was really lucky to spend a number of weeks helping out the Mexican rep for the global network, Reporters Without Borders. Every week, or a few times a week, new incidinces of death threats, dead reporters or other suspicious events would come to light.

When Hugo Chavez in Venezuela closed Radio Caracas Television, a very old and established private TV station, about a month ago - it was HUGE in the press here. Features, front pagers etc. There were massive protests from all walks of society in Venezuela.
I was really against what Chavez was doing - the arbitrary nature of him shutting down this TV station was very shocking, and then he started spouting off at other media groups in venezuela, threatening them. Sure, RCTV is a private conglomerate, maybe its like Channel 9 is australia. Chavez hated it as it criticised his government.
But he went too far when he made a low dig at Reporters Without Borders and said that the organisation was supporting 'global economic imperialism', just because RSF had expressed concern over press freedom in venezuela. Keep your pants on Hugo! More and more, he seems like an outdated lost demagogue in my eyes. Seriously, get with it man.

Another funny thing about the press is that I was part of a report done by my friend on the Channel 11 news the other night, about the death penalty. He recorded me saying things about australia's and singapore's stance on the death penalty. The funny thing is that he also took footage for his 'file tape' on my comments on John Howard. I believe I said at some point that Howard was the puppy dog of George Bush. Holy cow, if that airs in the next few months when federico reports on the aussie election.... ASIO wont be happy!

And added to all this, I'm dating a journalist. Bloody hell, call me Lois Lane.

Innovative policies in Mexico City

This is a photo of Marcelo Ebrard, governor of the Federal District of Mexico City (he governs as many people as John Howard does), showing off the city government's new policy to reduce arms possession.



If you own a weapon in Mexico City, and you turn it into the authorities, they give you in exchange: an XBox player, a desktop computer or cash.

Cool, hey? This is Ebrard with the 1000th weapon that has been handed in.

........And back to the Rat Race

30 mins to move 500 metres in a jam packed microbus, the speakers of the vehicle blaring with the blunt sound of a tuba and the repetition of a singer wailing for his lost woman.
Surrounded by men on all sides whose mothers never taught them not to stare at strangers. Whities with green eyes. Yes, get over it hombres. Just get over it.

How I am supposed to know that that place leads me to another microbus which leads me to the back of beyond? Could you please give me more directions that 'yeah, that one, over there?'.





Please dont push, let people get off the metro first before others get on. A man falls flat on his back on the metro platform as people clamber to get out. This hardly stops the pace as the streams of bodies keep climbing on.
I'm running late. man this city is stuffed up.

That's a morning.


But in other good news Mexico smashed Paraguay 6-0 in the quarter finals of the Copa America on Sunday night.

The Much-Anticipated Wedding in Acapulco

I have just come back from a wedding of luxury in Acapuclo, mexico's emerald pacific resort. It was the much anticipated wedding of Julio's best friend Eduardo. Julio was the 'Padrino' of alcohol.. that is to say, as the best man for the wedding he had to foot the bill for all the grog. They share the financial pain for all manner of extended family and friends here!

Acapulco has attracted a name of over-development, trash etc... but really it continues to be dazzlingly beautiful. The sort of place that has always been popular, and always will be. And avoids being the scummy gringo land that Cancun is.
As I sat under the stars on the beautiful bay of Acapulco, I was reminded a bit of Sydney - two gorgeous pieces of headland and a stunning harbour. Acapulco was the first of all mexican resorts, populated by Cary Grant, Errol Flynn, John Wayne and even JFK (we stayed where they stayed!). Now the foreigners seem to flock to Cancun or Los Cabos up north, while Acapulco still shines brightly.

Sure, there is tackiness and resort style cursive font written on every concreted surface, and Hooters and fast food overload... but all of this seems to be overcome by the stunning mountains that surround the bay, the dramatic views and the laid back people.

Beach weddings in Mexico have a lovely style to them - all the men wear light elegant white shirts and the women hold hand fans to their faces during the proceedings.

Endings, New beginnings and rebeginnings



Semester finished at the end of June with planeloads of exchange students going home to France, Canada and the USA.. tearful airport goodbyes, farewell parties and all of a sudden there was no uni, no exchange.
Now there is me, life in mexico, living 'like a mexican'. New friends, boyfriend, new internship, teaching english and scaling the city from top to bottom to give classes.
Early mornings and appointments and rushing to and forth and computer fatigue and LIFE... after what was in reality a 6 month holiday!

The short story of what I am up to:
I recently moved out of the wonderful community that was Atardecer en La Condesa, the restaurant and home that I lived in for 6 months, and I am currently living in the apartment of my friend Federico... but I will be moving back in with Mari, Jesus and everyone at the end of the summer!

I have started an internship at the Miguel Agustìn Pro Juarez Human Rights Centre ('Center Prodh'www.centroprodh.org.mx), a really respected human rights NGO here. The internship is great - I am working in the international relations area, on international law stuff, preparing documents for international NGOs on the human rights situation in mexico. I decided to take this internship over Amnesty International Mexico... long story, but I decided that although Amnesty has the 'name', the office here was not able to offer me the knowledge and experience I was looking for at the moment. And Center Prodh is the only mexican Human Rights org with UN consultative status.
Anyway, sorry if this is all a bit short-handed, readers, but it comes on the back of many such explanatory emails. Just thought I better put an update here, for those of you who are wracking your brains trying to figure out what the hell I am doing!

Anyway, here are two good photos :
One of Jessie's last days at Atardecer, gathered around with the clan.

Goofing around with the latest gang of ragamuffins I have found myself with:
Julio, me, (behind)
Katleen and Carlos (in front)

Hibernation in Chiapas

Here I am, taking recluse in San Cristobal de Las Casas. Seat of the 1994 Zapatista uprising.
Giving thanks for everything that has come my way - a wonderful exchange in mexico city, fantastic experiences. Gaining strength for everything to come. Whether I start at Amnesty International doing an internship as planned, or win another position that I have applied for...whatever happens. Here I am, hiding away from the world that in the next couple of weeks will leap forward and grab a hold of everything that I have been working towards. Weeks and weeks of interviews, investigation and looking 'forward'. Now, a pause in the proceedings. It is wonderful to spend a few days appreciating the beauty of things around me, only to know that waiting at home is a life that I can sink my teeth into.

Here I have posted some of the interesting grafitti in SCLC.
Translation -
'La Lucha es diara!' - 'The struggle is daily'
'Nuestros sueños no caben en sus urnos' - 'Our dreams don't fit in your ballot boxes'. Wow. This last quote blew me away. After the 1994 uprising and a lot of rancor between the Zapatistas and the army, (as well as considerable public outrage) - the government negotiated a series of accords to recognise indigenous rights. To cut a long a notorious killing of innnocent civilians and a flip'flopping in approaches... in 2001 the parliament finally voted indigenous clauses in the constitution. But what could have been great strides building on the San Andres accords turned out to be lightweight provisions that did not allow for autonomy, concrete measures for protecting indigenous resources etc. This vote was supported by all parties, including the left party, PRD. So many of those in the Zapatista movement felt betrayed by the whole political class of mexico. and thus their dreams dont fit in the ballot boxes.
This is also why many people say that since 2001, the 'left' in mexico has died.

When I arrived in San Cristobal last night, the light and fresh air in the mountains swept right into my throat so that I welled up with a deep gratefulness. It's like you're carried away from the clanging pulse of DF, and dropped into a safe cradle here in the mountains. The smell of pine needles shot me straight into feeling I was in guatemala again. The highlands always make me pensive, quiet, reflective, humble. A perfect place to read - all the human rights policy that I need to get on top of, and finally paying my homage and finishing 100 yrs of solitude. And other pieces of writing by Julio. my new love. more to come on that, but I feel so lucky right now that spurting out crass declarations hardly feels apt. I think I have blabbed to enough sources anyway!

Love this city

I have no idea why Mexico City is not thought of as a `city of the world`. It is amazing.
Of course, we think of scenes out of 'Amores y Perros', slums, traffic and a general apocalyptic chaos when we hear the words 'mexico city'. The reaction I got when I told people I was going to live here certainly confirmed that stereotype.
The city elicits fear from many. And of course it is dangerous. A number of my mexican friends have been held up at gunpoint. There are some really dodgy areas, where you just feel bloody unsafe. The traffic is unspeakable at times, and the accumulated panic of the largest city in the world really cannot be soothed by the languid comments of a taxista who tells you 'yes señorita, there is lots of traffic today'. Not helpful when you're dying to get to an interview on time.

However it couldn't be more full of wonderful things to do, culture, theatres, museums, beautiful architecture....It has everything!

A lot more should be done to promote it. And I'm starting right now. Move over Paris, Tokyo, New York.....

'El DF es la mera onda!'.

(Mexico City is the true vibe!)


And it will be my home until the end of 2007, if not longer. I heart DF.